Monday, February 23, 2009

The Moon Is Made of This

Josh: This is my wife. She makes crackers -- that you can eat!
Friend: I prefer the kind you can't eat, myself.


I've heard that money can't buy love, but I've found that it can buy all the ingredients for homemade crackers. And homemade crackers absolutely buy love. I've bought so much love recently that I had to donate some to Goodwill. Maybe it's because people appreciate the effort. Maybe it's because crackers are the kind of thing nobody thinks you can make. Maybe it's because homemade crackers are delicious.

I roll my crackers out and cut them into shapes. I started to do this because it made for fun photographs for my blog, but now I do it because I have mutiny on my hands if I don't. Square crackers, kicking puppies, what's the difference?

But anyway, half the fun of making your own crackers is the variety of options you have at your disposal when you do. Not just shapes, but flavors. I can make cheddar crackers with my eyes closed -- what about blue cheese?

My first attempt was boring.

Ally: This is boring.
Josh: Yeah.
Ally: Maybe they'd be okay with, I don't know, some kind of kicky spice or something...
Josh: Kicky Spice? Is that who replaced Sporty Spice?


You know what tastes really good with blue cheese crackers? Buffalo wing sauce. It's like a match made in -- wait for it -- the heavens.


Man in The Moon Crackers

1/2 cup butter or margarine
2 cups blue cheese crumbles
2 cups whole wheat pastry flour, plus extra for dusting
1 tsp salt
roughly 3/8 cup buffalo wing sauce

*Mix all ingredients together in a mixing bowl until thoroughly blended.

*Knead the dough until it becomes smooth. Let the dough rest for 10 minutes.

*Now's a good time to preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

*Roll the dough out, on a floured surface, to desired thickness. This dough is on the stickier side, so be sure to add sufficient flour to keep the crackers from sticking to the surface or the rolling pin.

*Bake on a foil lined cookie sheet for about 20 minutes. Watch these carefully, because they will burn very quickly. The thicker they are, the longer they take to crisp.

*Let cool for about 10 minutes before serving.

Wednesday, February 18, 2009

Bread, Alone

Jane is across the street from me, a bright smile on her face, dressed almost entirely in red. She is folded over a little, in the way very shy, very feminine women always are. Delicate. When I reach her, she doesn’t hug me or shake my hand, but presses her shoulder against my shoulder conspiratorially. She gestures at the shopping bag in my hand. “You’ve been to Sur La Table. It’s a nice store.”

“I love that place,” I say, giddily, guiltily -- my cooking passions are rarely shared by other people. But Jane is not merely being nice.

“What I really love,” she says, slowly, as if savoring her own speech, “is baking bread. I can’t make it in my kitchen now. Section eight housing – the oven doesn’t get above 120. Barely hot enough to cook the bottom crust.” She shakes her head. “I miss really good bread. I love kneading it. I’ve never used a bread machine – it takes all the fun out of the process.”

“I’m not much of a baker,” I admit. “More of a cook. But I love to bake bread. It’s the yeast – because it’s alive –“

“Yes! It’s wild. That’s what makes it intimidating to a lot of people. But it’s easy, once you get the trick to it.” She sighs, laments her kitchen again. “I used to bake a lot of bread.”

I met Jane when Jess – my dearest friend, my roommate, my brother – took me to a transgender support group. Jess had just begun his transition then, had just realized that, despite having been born in a female body, he was not female at all. Those early days of transition were tender for me, raw and chafing, rough and whirlwind, observing Jess as he changed into someone that I did not recognize and had no history with. It was a process that I’d thought I was well prepared for – I’d read all the pertinent books! I knew the language! – but was damnably, demonstrably, not. It was impossible just to be in a room full of transgendered people and not feel a little unbalanced.

In the midst of this, Jane was very easy to overlook.

Jane is shy, soft-spoken, reserved. Health problems have prevented her from starting the hormone therapy that would soften her features and enable her to look more as she would have had her body been female from the beginning. Her face is not feminine; when I first met her, she was homeless. She had no reliable way of shaving, and she wore a full beard. The world is cruel in this way. I stuck by Jess, who didn’t look female but didn’t look male, either, and I stuck by Jess’ friends, who were all very low-key, very easy going and good natured.

And in time, I found it harder and harder to pass Jane by. She is gracious and generous, so quietly so that you have to be watching intently and at the right time to notice it.

“I like Jane,” I told Jess. “I mean, I really like her.”

“Yeah,” he said. “She’s wonderful.” Pause. “I think I’m going to give her all my old earrings.”

“Did you have anything to do with these?” Jane asks, pulling her hair away from her ears and exposing a chain of dangly silver.

“No – that was all Jess.”

“That was so nice of him. I knew, from the moment I met him, that there was something about him. Something special.” I feel warmth swelling out from my chest; there are few ways to my heart that are more effective than this one, loving my family as much as I do.

We cross the street together, board a bus together. Jane tells me how to check the water temperature before adding in the yeast. “Drop some on your wrist – the way you test a bottle, for a baby. It should be about that temperature.”

The conversation turns to gardening, which is just another way to talk about food. “That bright green color of pesto made from fresh basil,” I say. She sighs, happy.

“And tomatoes – bright and firm and red,” she counters. For a moment I find myself as content as I ever have been, talking about cooking with someone who understands what it is that makes it so lovely, so vibrant, so fulfilling.

Jane’s comment is offhand – “I think I might be getting a cold.” It means nothing. It is small talk. The bus is crowded. Someone is standing over us, a woman, and she says something I don’t hear, something I only see as it washes over Jane’s face. Her voice comes into focus, slowly, as if I were drugged.

“I hope you have pneumonia. I hope you die from it.”

The woman moves away from us quickly, before my mind can formulate a meaning to the words. I cannot breathe. Wait! We were only talking about bread! There is nothing worth hating here. I look over at Jane, who is clearly upset. “People say the worst things to me sometimes. One guy said I ought to blow my head off.” She shakes her head, and then, by all appearances, she has recovered. We talk about bread again. I don’t recover. Not really.

Because if it happened to Jane, it could happen to Jess. And if it happened to Jess – this is unspeakable.

Jess’ transition catapulted me into an uncomfortable awareness of a privilege I didn’t know I had. I am cisgendered. I am a woman and so is my body. My own upturned wrist, my demure smile, my hair tucked behind my ear -- each of these things shoots me now with a haunting ache, each seems affected even as I know they are not. They are not affected, because they are natural. They come naturally to me, because I was lucky. I was lucky.

I will never have to tell a potential employer that I used to have a name that they might find is unusual for a woman. I will never have to explain to a new doctor why I’m on estrogen pills. I will never have to question whether someone spurned my offers of friendship because they disliked me personally, or because of something deeper. I will never, never have someone tell me that they hope I die from pneumonia just because I am wearing a dress.

In light of that privilege, all of my other privileges, the ones I have gotten used to having, seem paltry. It does not, after all, seem all that special to have a kitchen in which I can bake bread.

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Of Chicken Bondage

There's a saying that the mark of a very good cook is in their ability to roast a chicken. I think this is wildly untrue, because roasting chicken is so easy it shouldn't even be called cooking. It was one of the first techniques I really mastered in the kitchen, because mostly all you have to do is rub stuff on a chicken and then bake it. Voila. I have done it a million times, so many millions of times, actually, that I rarely do it anymore, because I'm tired of it.

Yet I was intrigued by this article. Why? Certainly the simplicity of it drew me in, and the lovely reminiscence at the end. Certainly I was taken by the bare ingredients, the promise of a lovely, moist chicken.

But mostly it's because I want to marry Thomas Keller and have his babies.

Who is Thomas Keller? Only the best chef in America. And if it's good enough for Keller, it is good enough for me.

The recipe calls for trussing the chicken, which I'd never done before. I read somewhere once that it actually dries out the chicken -- but if Keller says to truss, I'm trussing. If Keller told me rub moose snot on the chicken, I would do it. Unfortunately, I fail at Boy Scout sports, because I am a terrible trusser.


Sorry, honey, I got roped into staying late at the office.

I was so tied up in the bondage puns (ahem) I forgot to mention the singular experience of shoving paper towels into the chicken cavity to dry off the excess water. I have stuffed a chicken with a great many things, but that was a first.

And it was totally worth it. Crispy, golden crust, moist and tender meat. And all of ten minutes in the kitchen, including the time I spent indulging my OCD genes about having had raw chicken on my counter.



And, voila!

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

In Which Our Heroine Finds Out That Failure Is Delicious

I hope you all (both of you!) have this image of me in the kitchen as a joyous cook, singing Don't Stop Believin' at the top of my lungs, flipping pancakes with one hand and chopping basil with the other. I really, really hope that. Because the truth is that, more often than not, I'm standing over a smoking pan saying, "Oh, shit."

Not that I have to be in the kitchen to realize that I'm in the weeds. This weekend I was in the grocery store, trying to select a decent Worcestershire, when I realized that I was buying the ingredients for barbecue sauce instead of Buffalo wing sauce. Furthermore, this was not something I could immediately fix, because I had exactly zero idea what-all goes into Buffalo sauce. Further complicating matters was the bottle, at my eye level, of already prepared Buffalo sauce.

Maybe you don't think this would be a big problem.



But for me -- well, nobody who has spent more than, oh, ten minutes in my presence would tell you that I'm the kind of chick that does things the easy way. The Big Deal was not so much about what I made, it was about how I made it. I take a perverse pleasure in that God complex that arises when you take a bunch of raw ingredients and throw them together. I wanted to make Buffalo wing sauce from scratch.

So I went home and consulted the internet.

Buffalo sauce is not a difficult thing, requiring some butter and some spices and a little hot pepper sauce. Of course, this begs the question of: so how do you make hot pepper sauce? And that's not all that difficult either, requiring only some chilis and some vinegar. Of course, you need a jar to store it in, and some gloves, and god forbid if you touch your eyes during this process.

It was somewhere in here that I realized that I was being ridiculous.


And the stuff in the bottle? Has zero calories, beeyotch.

Sometime, when I haven't cooked anything good in awhile, and I want to bore you, I'll tell you all about why I love to cook. What I get out of it. How good it feels, to hold a knife in my hand and feel it pop cleanly through a bundle of asparagus. The sense of accomplishment I get from baking the perfect loaf of bread, from romancing a fickle yeast. Sometime, ask me why I might want to make buffalo sauce from scratch instead of being it premade in a bottle.


In the meantime, go eat this. Because it is really, really good.



Buffalo Style Chicken Pizza

Pretty much everything in this recipe is "to taste." Add as much or as little as you prefer.

Pizza dough, enough for one crust (I used the recipe here, which was lovely, but you can use a Boboli if you want)
Fresh mozzarella, grated
Blue cheese crumbles
Red onion, chopped
Buffalo wing sauce
Chicken thighs, skinless and boneless with the fat trimmed off
olive oil

Prepare the pizza crust according to recipe.

Cut chicken thighs into bite sized pieces. Coat the bottom of a skillet with olive oil, and saute the chicken at high heat, turning over once, until cooked through. This should take about 4 minutes.

Use a pastry brush to brush the pizza crust with olive oil. Then brush the dough with Buffalo wing sauce. Ideally, the perfect coverage is a little translucent -- the dough should be covered, but only very lightly.

Top with mozzarella and the remaining ingredients. Bake according to recipe/package directions.

Sunday, February 8, 2009

Tortilla Warfare


October 17, 1989: That was the night of the great Loma Prieta earthquake, an impressive 6.9 on the Richter scale. I was at my babysitter's house when it hit, maybe 45 minutes before my parents were due to pick me up. That earthquake collapsed an interstate and did some damage to the Oakland Bridge. Some people died, and some were injured. My family was unscathed. I think we lost a couple of glasses.

My babysitter --Marie -- and her family and I gathered with the rest of the neighborhood on the street, being jovial and convival, I think mostly because we had all lived and were pretty happy about it. We traded war stories, exactly where'd we'd been and what we'd been doing. I said I'd tried to duck under the dining room table, but Marie had grabbed me and shoved me into an open doorway instead. Some kid's dad had been in the bathroom, which was pretty funny stuff when you're under 12.

It got late, and dark, and my parents still hadn't come. Marie took me aside and said, "Don't worry. There's just a lot of traffic. I'm sure your parents are fine."

"I'm not worried," I said, because I wasn't. I was an emotionally pragmatic kid. I was worried about being kidnapped, and about giant bunnies amputating my limbs in the middle of the night. But if my parents were stuck in a little post-apocalyptic traffic, that was their problem. Marie shrugged. Then she handed me a warm flour tortilla, with refried beans spread inside -- standard fare at Marie's house.

It's a snack I've had plenty of times, before and after that day, but I've never quite been able to replicate the taste. The tortillas were always soft and pliable; the beans flavorful enough that I didn't crave any other additions. I am pretty sure Marie got her tortillas from a bag and the beans from a can, but the combination has never been quite the same for me.

Until today.

I have two things to thank: the first is Rosarita refried beans. For years I've been buying the non-fat kind, thinking that they were saving me from heart attacks and meaningless calories, but you know what? The difference between regular and non fat beans is...20 calories. 2o. Unless you figure that the difference is flavor is so great that non fat beans require about 120 calories worth of cheese, and possibly 60 calories worth of sour cream, meaning that it's actually calorically more beneficial to get the higher fat beans.

The other thing? This lady, who helped me make my own tortillas today. It's like my childhood, playing out over my tastebuds all over again.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Good evening, Ladies and Lentil Men

"Are you and your mother very much alike?"

I had to think about it for awhile. My first inclination was to emphatically say no; no woman wants to say that they are like their mother, and I always identified more with my father when I was growing up. At first glance, most people would agree that we are completely different people. But at the back of my head, I had a vision of myself brushing my hair, tossing my head in the exact way she does, or touching my collarbone in the same way she does during conversation. And slowly I came to a precise answer, the brutal and honest truth -- that of her three children, I am both the most like her and the least like her.

"Allycen," my mother said when I told her, "I don't even know what that means."

On some level, I think I'm my mother on a different timeline, a different life path. I am who my mother might have been if she had not had children, or if she had married happily. I am the part of my mother who loved to paint and loved to cook. When she tells me stories about how she used to make graham crackers from scratch for me when I was a baby -- well. I know where I get it from.

And yet, if you could put pictures of our respective living rooms side by side, you'd see two very different women just in our houses. Mine is all mess and color, hers is order and whiteness. My mother vacuums every day. I'm pretty sure I own a vacuum. My mother is a social butterfly, I am a hermit. And my mother -- well, my mother likes to make lentil soup.


I grew up never wanting to hear the words "lentil soup," first, foremost and most specifically in the context of "your mother is making some." There were few foods that inspired more dubiousness within me, and I was a child with a fairly unique palate. I liked tofu, and swiss chard, I preferred nine grain bread over wonder white, but I had no kind words for my mother's favorite dish.

What about it was so loathsome? I couldn't tell you. Maybe it was the celery. Maybe it's that I have never been especially partial to soup. Maybe it was my father's fault, since he hated it too. Quite possibly it was liquid gold. I still hated it, and I shunned lentils until my mid-twenties. And then, as my mother's most-and-least-like-her child, I discovered that I like lentils, too. Just not in soup.



Ham and Lentils

1 lb lentils
1 qt low sodium chicken stock
1 cup chopped white onion
2 Tbsps olive oil
5-6 cloves finely chopped garlic
liberal amounts of pepper, to taste
salt, to taste
2 cups cooked green peas
1 lb cooked ham, cubed

*Wash the lentils and sort through them, removing any dirt, rocks, or damaged lentils.

*In a large pot, combine the chicken stock and the washed lentils. Cover and simmer for about 20 minutes, until the lentils are soft but still have a firm bite.

*Saute the onions in olive oil on medium heat with the garlic, pepper, and salt until the onions are soft. Add the peas and ham to the saute pan and turn the heat down low.

*Drain the lentils of any remaining liquid.

*Combine all ingredients and serve. Garnish with parmesan if desired.

Monday, February 2, 2009

Spanako, no pita

Making A Crustless Spinach Quiche, the Mea Gulpa Way:

*After spending hours making a family favorite, decide to be selfish and cook something only you would dare to eat. Something that has spinach in it, which Josh hates. And cheese, even though Jess is allergic.

*Chop the onions. Cry. Resolve for the billionth time to look up how to avoid crying over chopped onions.

*Wash and drain the spinach until it is as dry as you can get it. By which I mean, wash the spinach, put it in a tupperware container, drive it out to the Mojave Desert, and leave it sitting there for about six months.


Alternatively, wrap the wet spinach in a towel and beat it with a baseball bat until you scare all the water out.

Seriously. You won't think I'm being funny if you've ever tried to dry this shit by hand.

*Put the onions in a pan with just a little bit of oil, garlic, and a variety of spices and herbs. When the onions are soft, add the spinach and cook. Wax poetic about how it smells so much like the spanakopita your mother used to make, and how it was your favorite food as a kid even though you only ever got it twice a year if you were lucky, and then you had to walk uphill both ways in the snow backward to get any, and maybe it's time for another therapist appointment.


*Take out your aggression on a few eggs. Add cheese, and spinach. Bake in a loaf pan because your 8x8 baking pan is dirty.

*Make a romantic sigh of relief. Look around. Realize that the kitchen is a wasteland.


*Go visit your husband in the next room instead of cleaning up.

*Thirty odd minutes later, pull the pan from the oven and serve.

*Hate it. Eat it with great hostility for breakfast for the next 5 days.

*Rinse, lather, repeat at least six times before finally, finally getting down the right combination and making something delicious. That only you will eat.

Spanako

2 10 oz packages of frozen spinach, defrosted and well drained
Roughly 2 Tbsp of olive oil
1 cup chopped white onions
3-4 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 cup chopped fresh basil
1 Tbsp dill
1/2 tsp nutmeg
pepper and salt, to taste
4 eggs, beaten
8 oz feta, crumbled
just over 1/2 cup shredded parmesan

*Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.

*Mix eggs and cheeses in a large bowl and set aside.

*Put oil, onions, garlic, basil, dill, nutmeg, pepper and salt in a skillet. Heat on medium, stirring until the onions are soft -- about a minute or two.

*Add the spinach to the skillet and stir until warm. Add a little oil if it dries out too much.

*Combine the spinach mixture with the eggs and cheese.

*Bake in a lightly greased dish for about 30-40 minutes. It's best to wait ten minutes before serving.

Tip: If you do not own a baseball bat or you don't live close enough to the Mojave to properly dry your spinach, try one of these instead:

It's a potato ricer. It cost me about $8, and while I never ever eat potatoes unless I can help it, I'd say this was well worth the cost.